Email required. Popular Topics. More from Nikon. Close Window Share this article by email. Your email has been sent. We like sharing articles, too! Sign Up for Emails.
Close Window. Your message is sending. At the same time, that's not as much improvement as you'd see using a dedicated gyroscope instead of VR. If you regularly shoot out of helicopters, a gyro is a better investment than a more expensive VR lens. Some explain that shutter speeds above that are done by moving an opening across the image rather than having the full image exposed simultaneously this is a simplification, but it's good enough for this discussion.
Nikon claims that they now can distinguish between camera movement and platform movement based upon the information the gyros are providing the system. In such cases, turn off Sport VR and use Normal if you're on an active platform. At the other end of the movement spectrum, we have subject motion. If the subject is moving, using VR with longer shutter speeds can be problematic. This is a tough thing to learn, and it's usually learned the hard way. But the only motion being removed by the system is camera motion.
This is, of course, a generalization. There's a more detailed table below the one I just referenced that shows how distance impacts the shutter speed, too. Plus the size of the subject in the overall frame makes a difference.
Expecting VR to remove all motion including subject motion is something everyone has to get over:. Another type of motion comes with panning the camera, and VR has impacts there, too. I've seen people say that they think you should turn VR off when you pan with a subject. That's because the Nikon VR system is very good about detecting a constant camera movement.
If you're doing a smooth pan in one direction, the VR system will focus on removing only motion on the opposite axis.
That's the way it's designed to operate. The trick is to make sure that your pan is relatively smooth, and not jerky. Most people start to jerk when they press the shutter release during pans. You need to practice NOT doing that and to continue the pan while the shutter is open, not stopping. Indeed, try practicing this at your local track or other place with some runners present. Pan with the runner and take a picture. When the mirror returned and the viewfinder view is restored after the shot is the runner still in the same spot in the frame?
Then you didn't continue panning through the shot. Tsk tsk. Try again. Practice until you can take a series of shots and the runner stays in the same spot through the entire sequence, both in the shots and while you're panning between shots. You shouldn't be having to catch up to the runner. Aside : Back in high school my photography mentor at the time broke me of the habit of stopping during pans in a brutally sadistic way: he sent me to track meets with a TLR twin lens reflex.
You look down into the viewfinder of a TLR. But here's the thing: left to right is reversed. So if the subject is moving right to left in front of you, they appear left to right in the viewfinder.
You don't have a chance of following motion with a TLR unless you can relax your brain and make your camera motion just mimic the motion of your subject.
You can't look and react, look and react. Yet another aspect of VR that confuses people is activation. A partial press of the shutter release always engages VR and allows it to begin a sequence of corrections. Basically, if you engage VR prior to the shot, you tend to get slightly better and more consistent results. That doesn't mean you should always wait for VR to engage before fully pressing the shutter release. If it's time to take the picture, take the picture! VR will give you its best shot at fixing your camera motion when you just punch the shutter release.
But there are two factors that tend to make early VR engagement a better choice if you can do it: first, the VR system gets a stream of data it can predict from; and second, it's difficult to move the camera as much by jabbing the release if you've already partially pressed the release! The usual issue that comes up with the last paragraph is the line in many Nikon's manuals about "VR doesn't function when the AF-ON button is pressed.
Only the shutter release button engages VR on earlier cameras such as the D3 and D Thus, if you use AF-ON to focus instead of a partial shutter release, VR is not engaged during the pre-shot focusing for those cameras.
But it is during the shot. See note at very bottom of article. This, of course, creates a slight issue. If we're using AF-ON to focus, our fingers usually aren't pushing the shutter release partially down, too.
That right hand is starting to do a pretty complicated dance: AF-ON up and down for focus, shutter release partially down for VR, right thumb dialing in shutter or aperture or exposure adjustments, maybe right middle finger dialing in aperture adjustments, shutter release fully down with the index finger for the shot. This, by the way, is one of the reasons why I prefer Nikon's ergonomics to Canon's: at least when I'm doing all that hand juggling, my hand and finger positions aren't really moving, especially my shutter release finger.
With Canon the tendency is to move the index finger between the top control wheel and shutter release. You can react with the shutter release faster if you're not moving that finger. There are a few more caveats. If you've got a built-in flash on your camera basically everything but the D1, D2, D3, D4 D5 series, and the D and D , while the flash is recharging the VR system is inactive.
That's because VR takes power to perform and the assumption is that you want the flash recharged as fast as possible. Thus, the camera turns off the power to the VR system while it's charging up the camera's flash capacitor.
If you're shooting flash near full power and doing a lot of consecutive flashes, the flash recharge time can start taking a few seconds. How do you know if power is restored to the VR system? Well, you can't, exactly, but the flash indicator in the viewfinder is a fairly reliable indicator: if it's not present with the flash up and active, VR is probably Off.
I've been holding off on the tripod issue to the end of this article, partly because it's not as clear cut as Nikon seems to think it is. Part of the problem is that Nikon hasn't clearly labeled and described their various VR system iterations.
Technically, the VR II system on some of the modern lenses should detect when the camera is on a stable platform and not try to jump in and correct anything. But not all modern lenses have what most of us regard as the full VR II.
The recently introduced mm, for example, comes long after the intro of VR II, but it does not appear to have tripod recognition. Thus, we have another rule before we get to the real rule:. Rule 8 For Real: If your camera is on a tripod, even if you're using something like a Wimberley head where it is almost always a bit loose, just try turning VR off. So why do I disagree with Nikon?
Even with a loose head on a tripod, motion should be fairly easy to control, and you should have removed one possible motion almost completely ditto with monopods. A couple of reasons as to why this image looks so sharp, is due to the use of a tripod and a remote shutter release. As it was not a hand held shot, I also turned off the IS image stabilization option on the actual lens.
This allows stabilization when taking a photograph while walking or running. Floating groups counteract sensed movement with opposite motion, much like Canon and Nikon. Tamron calls their version Vibration Compensation. Olympus, Panasonic, and Leica all have their titles for a similar mechanism as well.
All cameras that have a stabilizer in them have the option to switch the stabilization on or off. Most like myself tend to keep the option on.
Image stabilization is best for specific conditions or to counteract particular variables. This is good for sports photography where you often go handheld to follow the action! For windy conditions, IS and VR is also beneficial even if your camera is on a tripod. The shake caused by wind pushing on your equipment is enough to cause trouble in the final result. Stabilization can correct this problem.
Image stabilization allows camera and lens handheld use without worrying about shake. It also has a bonus for low light photography. Image stabilization enables you to go several stops slower with shutter speed. The system prevents your subject from being as blurred with movement as it could have been. The higher the shutter speed , the faster the frozen action it can capture, but the darker your frame.
The lower the shutter speed, the slower the shutter takes the picture. The action blurs more — but your frame gets exposed to much more light and is thus brighter.
There are downsides to VR and IS, which is why there is an option to turn the system off. People assume that if you turn stabilization on, it will lay dormant until it senses motion. Depending on camera, lens, and brand, vibration reduction may never be off even when there is no movement. The camera or lens may continue searching for movement , which can cause some blur in your image!
To remedy this, you can turn the vibration reduction system off when shooting in bright daytime. Your shutter speed is high enough to compensate for any shake.
0コメント