What affects the color is the polyurethanes composition; whether you choose an oil based polyurethane or a water bourn polyurethane will determine the amount of amber or yellow tint you receive. As stated above, water bourn polyurethane has little to no tint, regardless of the level of sheen; which is why it is recommended and often used as the finish for white washed, gray or natural maple hardwood floors.
Oil base polyurethane not only has a warm golden hue, making natural hardwood flooring warmer in color, but also ambers over time. This warm color hue, and ambering effect, will happen regardless of the level of sheen in the oil based polyurethane. If you choose a matte finish, oil-based polyurethane, the yellowing effect will be the same as if you choose a high gloss finish, oil-based polyurethane for your hardwood flooring.
The basic difference between each finish is the way in which light is reflected off of it. The lower the level of sheen, the less likely you are to see scratches, scuffs or dirt on your hardwood floors, this is because light reflects off of a finish with a high sheen level more than a finish with a low sheen level.
Many customers do not realize just how dull this finish is, as opposed to the high gloss finish. The finish is really up to preference, and is totally an aesthetic choice. Already popular in Europe, low luster hardwood flooring is gaining popularity in North America and offers a wide range of benefits for consumers. By becoming more familiar with these benefits and the basics of low-luster floors, you can make the most of this trend. Currently satin finish is in high demand and recommended most by professionals today.
The Satin finish is the median point of the sheen levels; it kind of possesses the best of both ends of the sheen-spectrum; Satin has the benefits of the matte finish, in that it can hide scratches well, while still being clear enough to see all the beautiful graining in your hardwood floor. Again, this is less work and less worry for homeowners, especially those who live in areas where harsh weather conditions bring a lot of moisture and dirt into the house.
The Semi-gloss finish is a bit shinier in an oil-based polyurethane than a waterborne one. Semi-gloss polyurethane is clear, shiny, and not really recommended for households with pets, or small children.
As stated above; the shinier you go, the more noticeable scratches, dents, scuff marks, and imperfections, even dirt on the floor will be. High gloss has the highest luster level of all the finishes. This is not often used for high traffic hardwood floors. Not usually where there will be heavy foot traffic, or pets. High gloss is notorious for making dust, streaks from cleaning, pet hair, water spots, scratched, dirt and dents, much more apparent.
Despite its odor and higher toxicity, oil-based polys are slightly more durable and offer much better protection against heat. If you want a finish for an area that will get a lot of traffic, oil-based poly is usually preferred due to its heat and moisture resistance. Unlike polyurethane, varnish is designed for outdoor projects and is not typically used for indoor surfaces such as a hardwood floor.
While polyurethane is water- or oil-based plastic resin, varnish is older and made from resins, oils, and solvents. Because of the higher ratio of solids, varnish is less susceptible to ultraviolet light damage. This protection makes varnish an excellent choice for projects such as outside decks and exterior furniture. This finish gives a more tinted color when applied and requires more coats than polyurethane.
Avoid damage to your finished product by properly applying the finish; this will prevent damages to your flooring. Use the correct solvents for thinning and allow enough drying team in between coats to prevent the varnish from becoming brittle. Yes, our EM Polycarbonate Polyurethane is an excellent choice for use on a dining table. Visit the link above. Darryl — Thank you for your inquiry. Yes, the EM Polycarbonate Urethane is one of the two best options of a non-yellowing clear coat.
If you are looking for maximum chemical resistance I recommend the A 20gal air tank is recommended. We offer a turbine kit that contains the Q5 Turbine and a T75G gun , along with hosing and ancillary accessories. Robert — Thank you for your inquiry. While I personally lean towards penetrating oils for wood counters, you can use a film forming finish such as our Emtech EM Polycarbonate Urethane for this application.
Keep in mind that any film forming coating will chip, requiring regular maintenance. Penetrating oils are easier to repair for the average home owner.
I am doing a huge project this summer. Refinishing indoor furniture and making an outdoor welcome sign. This is my first refinishing project and have been doing a great amount of research going into it. I have decided on a water based stain for the indoor furniture and an oil based stain for the outdoor sign with white chalk paint for letters.
I plan on using water based polyurethane for the indoor furniture as I want to limit fumes and the water based polyurethane seems it is fast drying and better for furniture. I am wondering if this is true, if you have any tips for my first time, and if I am able to use the water based polyurethane for the oil based stain? Ally — Thank you for your inquiry. Once this time lapses you will then gently clean the surface of dried stain with a solution of water and denatured alcohol mix , this will remove any remaining oils or spirits that my reside on the surface of the dried stain.
If not removed these oils can cause adhesion and film leveling problems hen a water based finish is applied onto the stain. If performed properly and carefullY0 you will obtain a good bond between the water based and oil based products. I agree with everything except one.
I found it necessary to scuff sand between coats with water based poly. If not, successive coats can peel. This has happened to me. I am venturing into making outdoor barn quilts.
The oil based spar tends to yellow and also is not holding up to the sun. I have one barn quilt in part afternoon shade north facing and another in full afternoon sun. The latter one in full sun is already cracking and peeling after one year. My main question is, would a water based hold up better to the sun?
Note: I use a mix of quality craft paint due to the large number of colors available and exterior paint on the designs followed by two coats of spar. Should I just stick to exterior paint? Thank you for any advice, I appreciate it. Be well. Megan — Thank you for your inquiry. I recommend that you consider our Emtech EM Water Based Polycarbonate Urethane as your clear coat of choice over the craft paints being used on your folk art. I do have a few questions about the paint you are suing, so please feel free to contact my office so we can review in greater detail.
I want to refinish my wood floors on the first level. I do not plan to cover them. In CT, they have now over last few years banned oil based poly. If you want wood to keep its light color, use a water-based poly.
Restrictions on VOC emissions have spurred the development of alternatives to oil-based polys. Consider the different characteristics of each type before you buy. Choose whichever sheen you like best; there's no difference in durability.
Just remember that the glossier the finish, the more it will show any underlying imperfections and any future wear and tear. Most exterior polys can be used indoors, but interior polys should never be used outdoors; they lack the additives that protect exterior finishes from UV rays.
Every poly has its preferred applicator, typically a brush or cloth. Some polys also come in aerosol spray cans. Each polyurethane is unique, thanks to tweaks in its chemical makeup; choose the one that best matches your particular project. Acetone-based nail-polish remover softens lacquer. Water drops turn wax white in about 10 minutes. If either lacquer or wax are present, strip them before proceeding.
Do this before and during application to evenly blend the ingredients that control sheen and UV resistance. Apply thin coats. Thick ones take longer to dry and are more likely to drip or wrinkle. Dust interferes with adhesion and leaves unsightly bumps in the finish. Use a cloth dampened with mineral spirits on oil-based finishes; use a water-dampened cloth on water-based finishes. A dry microfiber cloth also works well with both finishes.
Shaking creates bubbles, which leave a rough, pitted surface. It's okay to shake wipe-on polys, however. Thinning doesn't improve adhesion, and you'll have to apply more coats and use more solvent.
Use natural bristle for oil-based finishes and synthetic filament polyester, nylon, or a blend of the two for water-based and water-based oil-modified finishes. Don't use rollers or foam brushes—they create bubbles. Your brush will be easier to clean, and will go longer between cleanings, if its bristles are dipped first in mineral spirits, if you're using an oil-based poly, or in water, if the finish is water-based. Before using the brush, rapidly roll the handle between your hands inside a cardboard box to eliminate excess.
Working from a separate container prevents the dust and other particles picked up by the brush from contaminating the finish in the can. After dipping about one-third of the brush into the finish, gently slap it against the inside of the container. Scraping the bristles over the edge of a container leaves the brush too dry to apply a coat of the right thickness. It's the best way to work the finish into the wood pores and ensure an even appearance.
Wipe the wood with a damp cloth to raise the fibers; after the surface dries, knock them back with grit sandpaper.
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