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Subject to credit approval. See terms. Ratings and Reviews Write a review. Most relevant reviews. Did not work for my application These may work fine for prop savers that are just a collar with screws degrees apart but did not work for my ares gamma with included prop saver. X Previous image. Work great These o-rings are great for the prop-savers and its always good to have extras on hand. Why is this review inappropriate?
There are copyright or trademark issues. Please call Quantity —. Add To Cart , opens dialog. Find in Store , opens dialog Add to My List. Name Value Compatibility 8 - 9. The rubber band holds it to the yoke and delivers the rotational force to the prop like a normal nut would, except with a bit more elasticity. This same principle applies to just about every component that break easily. Can you please confirm the HZ Super Cub prop shaft is 3 mm.
I am not totally sure. I think the Cub might actually have a 4mm shaft. That prop saver from xushobby. Prop savers are pro p ably fine for very light, very slow planes that use relatively fragile props. I don't thing anything from flite test qualifies in that category. Tactical Ex Senior Member Apr 3, Got my stronger gear situated. Started a thread on it here.
Now hopefully the only parts of mine plane touching the ground are the landing gear and not my prop. Craftydan Hostage Taker of Quads Staff member. Apr 3, Prop savers, IMO, are not only just fine but prefered for fixed wing motors less than w, and I've safely used them on motors up to W.
In most cases they have insufficent stretch to hold on tightly and are frequently too large to more than lightly hold the prop on. That means -- right prop, with the right band on the right motor. The prop itself needs to fit flat on the base of the propsaver. It also sholdn't have any lateral play between the centering shaft and the prop when it's pressed together with the band. If the prop comes with spacers that "almost" fit, go a size low, instal the spacer and ream it out until it fits.
If it's easy for you to get on and off, it'll be easy for the motor to throw the prop off. It can be hard to find, but Theraband "blue" tubing is ideal and a foot of tubing can make bands. The right motor is a medium to low powered motor. One exception is multirotors. Even if you're running low powered motors, the props aren't just your thrust, they're your control surfaces.
Prop savers will slip while changing the speed of the prop, adding slop to the control. You might not be able to notice it, but every bit of slop in control, whether it be this, ESC ROMs, slow control boards, or weak sensors, takes a little something away from how responsive and well behaved the MR is.
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